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: 4140 flywheel bolts
: 4140 flywheel bolts -- NX-687	Post Reply	Top of thread	Engineering Forum

Posted by: NX-687 ® 02/04/2009, 04:05:43 Author Profile eMail author Edit

Sorry I forgot to mention , correctly lubricated bolts and hardened and tempered surface ground washers, so that the torque reading is as correct as possible My thinking on this is the minimum spec would be grade 8.8 bolts with above mentioned process , and ,, medium loctited

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: : 4140 flywheel bolts
: : 4140 flywheel bolts -- NX-687	Post Reply	Top of thread	Engineering Forum

Posted by: RWOLFEJR ® 02/05/2009, 15:12:27 Author Profile eMail author Edit

Without getting into the "why" on making your own bolts... Any Automotive flywheels I've ever removed, the bolts had six cuts in the head with a pocket in the center. Sort of look like a castle at the head. I don't know what the head configuration is supposed to denote. They're not the typical raised lines on the head but depressions. (Maybe someone else knows what that calls out?) You can buy flywheel bolts at any hot rod shop or dealership parts counter. The chosen bolts from the factory can be adequately torqued to load up the bolts and keep them tight without pulling the crank threads. I've never encountered a washer under a flywheel bolt. If this is some sort of radical race engine... boldly going where it wasn't designed to go... you might want to check with a professional builder and see what they do about attaching their flywheels. Experience and actual field applications will usually uncover unexpected conditions that might otherwise be overlooked on a drawing board. Good luck!

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