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Seeking a K.I.S.S. solution for roof raising
I love the way your minds work. We need some engineers in politics!
I can describe the roof-raise mechanism, but a (moving) picture is worth a million of my non-tech-writer words, so I invite you to view the first minute or so of an online (YouTube™ video): [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAvHUM1voUM[/url].
The camper in the video has an overhang (cab-over) element that requires an extender; I do not have that disadvantage. I am disadvantaged by a much lower ceiling (while the room is down) which makes it very hard to "get under" the lift weight.
There are mechanisms (gas spring lift assists) that handle the problem quite elegantly. These struts can even be attached to the exterior of the shell so they don't invade the living space. As a very consistent bungler, however, I'd need to have them installed by someone with skills -- and there would be the cost.
My vision was for two pieces of lumber or light metal connected with a strong hinge (caps on the ends to protect ceiling and floor) that would "toggle" (thanks, dPink) the roof in place (or at least get it up where I could shift position and lift without an asymmetrical strain on my back).
Avoiding complicated and powered solutions with many moving parts is a very high priority for me (not as high as avoiding back injury, of course). I bought a "shell" camper -- no stove, refrigerator, furnace, sink, water tanks, etc. I'll use the traditional camp stove, ice chest, etc.
So, I guess my main question relates to the amount of force required as the angle of my toggle decreases from 180º to 80º or 90º. (Note: I might end up staging the lift, using the toggle to gain enough clearance for me to get in position to complete the job unassisted.
Based on your input, I'm GUESSING (I know you folks don't approve of such things) that the force requirement increases exponentially as the start angle decreases. A formula or table indicating that range would be just great.
By the way, a solution others have employed is the use of a crank-operated "speaker stand" -- a jack designed to lift 100 pounds of electronic into the air at rock concerts. I'm avoiding that solution because of cost (around $75) and because I think I can make other uses of my hinged pole – either inside my rig or outside when I'm parked, particularly if the hingepin can be removed and i have two, sturdy 3' long sticks.
OK, more info than you need... ☆
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Gaining confidence; ready to build a prototype (I think)
I like the rubber wheel idea. I'm not sure it's best to begin the lift very far off-center, but I can easily test that idea. And I need to make sure there's a good path for the roller to traverse.
On the other hand, I was considering affixing the kind of "feet" you see on ladders -- with a pivoting rubber end piece. One on each end of the toggle would give some grip to the surface while protecting it at the same time. Check out my current version (I'm growing attached to it). It seems to be simple and to really exploit the leveraging factor while moving my point of contact right up where it should be: where my hand would be if I were lifting manually.
I'm enough in to this whole idea that I think I may be ready to invest in a couple of 2x4s, a gate hinge and (if they're not too dear) a pair of pivoting feet. Add a half-dozen or so wood screws and that should be the entire parts list. If works according to plan, I'll share the credit with you and Archimedes.
And if others choose to adopt the notion, I'll ask them to refer to the invention as "Dave's Toggle." How does that work for you?
This has been good fun. I've learned a lot. Thanks so much for your help and teaching.
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