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Knockouts in sheetmetal | |||
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Posted by: RFTH ® 10/17/2007, 12:27:32 Author Profile eMail author Edit |
This is basically our standard for knockouts: Flatten knockouts back into the base material from 60% to 80% of the thickness of the base material. This will produce a 20% to 40% knockout height, above the base material. Since I am new to this (knockout stds and forum both), I am curious where this info comes from. Is there a sheetmetal std for knockouts and how far they can protrude from base material. Appreciate any help on this, thanks. Brian M. |
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Re: Knockouts in sheetmetal | |||
Re: Knockouts in sheetmetal -- RFTH | Post Reply | Top of thread | Forum |
Posted by: randykimball ® 10/17/2007, 13:58:55 Author Profile eMail author Edit |
Well, maybe, I don't know if there is a standard. However, the idea is to punch it far enough to break the molecular structure so that the punch out is no longer a part of the base metal, with an exception. The exception is the tabs that are not broken lose from the base metal. These tabs maintain the connection so that the knockout is not loose. How far you punch the knockout depends on how well you need the knockout to stay in place, and easy you want it to come loose. In some cases a large portion of the knockouts will never be removed and should be punched shallow and have fairly secure tabs. Generally speaking if you punch 1/3 the thickness of a base metal, you will have broken the molcular bond. The worst suggestion of your lifetime may be the catalyst to the grandest idea of the century, never let suggestions go unsaid nor fail to listen to them. |
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Re: Re: Knockouts in sheetmetal -- randykimball | Post Reply | Top of thread | Forum |
Posted by: RFTH ® 10/17/2007, 14:04:50 Author Profile eMail author Edit |
Randy, Thanks for the info. It's a good start. Brian |
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Re: Re: Re: Knockouts in sheetmetal -- RFTH | Post Reply | Top of thread | Forum |
Posted by: CCR5600Design ® 10/18/2007, 11:18:59 Author Profile eMail author Edit |
We use knockouts on a regular basis around here. I have found that if the knockout protrudes above the edge of the sheetmetal, it can (and occasionally does!) get hung up on the tooling in the turret punch. We have progressed beyond that and now use a laser to cut the knockouts. By leaving a small tab to attach the knockout to the parent material, the laser offers a knockout or series of knockouts that is flush with the surrounding area. I realize everyone does not have a laser at their disposal, but in our case, I took advantage of the tooling and equipment we have available and came up with favorable results. Ron "What we need are more people who specialize in the impossible." - Theodore Roethke |
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Knockouts in sheetmetal -- CCR5600Design | Post Reply | Top of thread | Forum |
Posted by: randykimball ® 10/18/2007, 23:20:42 Author Profile eMail author Edit |
One other method to avoid that is to roll the knockout back flush with the base metal after it has been broken. The worst suggestion of your lifetime may be the catalyst to the grandest idea of the century, never let suggestions go unsaid nor fail to listen to them. |
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